CARTIER
In 1847, Louis-Francois Cartier opened a small jewellery store in Paris catering to the needs and whims of the new middle class, which, besides jewellery, included hair ornaments, bandeaus, porcelain by Wedgewood and Sevres, silverware, ivory pieces, decorative fans and gentlemen’s accessories.

In 1874, his son Albert took over the shop and organised the participation of the firm’s first International Exhibition, in London, thereby exposing them to a new clientele.

In 1898, Alfred’s eldest son Louis joined his father in the business, which was now renamed Alfred Cartier & Fils. The following year they moved to 13 rue de la Paix, where they remain today and Louis takes over responsibility for the store.

In 1904 they open a first branch in London, which they then move to New Bond Street in 1909, where they remain today.

By this time Pierre had joined his brother in the firm and had travelled to New York where he opened a third branch at 712 Fifth Avenue.

Excelling at what they set out to do, by 1910 they had several Royal Warrants including King Edward VII, King Carlos of Portugal, the King of Siam and Tsar Nicholas II of Russia.

The widespread use of platinum in jewellery at the turn of the century enabled Cartier to create incredibly fine metal frames in which to set their diamonds, coloured stones and pearls, which was the height of sophistication at this time. Soon after however, this style would be superseded by jewels created under the influence of Eastern exoticism. In 1909, designer Charles Jacqueau joined Cartier and interpreted his studies of the Ballets Russes, India, China, Egypt and Japan, which translated into a wide range of colourful jewellery. From 1909 to 1935 he would head up a team of eleven designers in Paris creating an exceptional array of jewellery in what would come to be known as the Art Deco style. For many today, it is this style that sets Cartier apart, both in design and workmanship.

Besides jewellery, Cartier were also innovative in watch and clock design, creating one of the earliest known wristwatches in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont who complained of the difficulties in using a pocket watch whilst flying. From about 1913, they also made Mystery clocks, which remain true collector’s items to this day.

In 1917, the New York branch relocated to 653 Fifth Avenue, its current address. Famously, the building was exchanged with Mr and Mrs Morton Plant for $100 and a double row natural pearl necklace worth $1 million.

Back in Paris, the Indian Maharajas were beginning to commission extraordinary jewels during this period, of which the best known is the Patiala necklace. Jacques brought back many Indian carved gemstones from his travels, which were used in abundance in Cartier jewellery during the 1920s and 30s in a style referred to as Tutti Frutti. Jeanne Toussaint, who had joined Cartier in 1919 as a handbag and accessories designer, was made Creative Director in 1933 and amongst her many achievements is best remembered for her panther motif that is now synonymous with Cartier.

At the beginning of the 1940s, after the deaths of both Louis and Jacques, Pierre took sole control of the firm. In 1945, Jacques’s son Jean-Jacques, took over the London branch and Pierre returned to Paris leaving Louis’ son Claude in charge of New York. When Pierre retired he left his daughter Marion to run the Paris branch and so it remained until 1962 when Claude sold Cartier New York. This was followed in 1966 by the sale of Paris and the, in 1974, by London. Five years later the firm was reunited by a merger between the respective owners and the creation of Cartier World. Since then, the firm has expanded with branches all over the world, producing now iconic designs such as the Love bangle and the Trilogy ring.

In 2012 Cartier became part of the Richemont group.